GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)

TheGlobal Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)is the world's leading processing standard for textiles made from organic fibers¹. GOTS defines high-level environmental criteria along the entire organic textiles supply chain and requires compliance with social criteria. From the harvesting of raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labeling, GOTS provides a credible assurance to the end consumer.

For fashion brands and textile importers, GOTS certification ensures that products marketed as "organic" satisfy strict legal and environmental boundaries across global markets².

Organic Fiber Content Requirements and Label Grades

GOTS differentiates between two explicit label grades based on the percentage of certified organic raw fibers present in the final product:

• GOTS 'Organic' Grade: Requires a minimum of 95% certified organic fibers (or organic-in-conversion fibers). Only up to 5% may consist of non-organic synthetic or regenerated fibers (excluding conventional cotton, which is strictly prohibited).
• GOTS 'Made with Organic' Grade: Requires a minimum of 70% certified organic fibers. Up to 30% may consist of non-organic materials, subject to strict limits on conventional synthetic content (e.g., maximum 10% synthetic fibers for most articles).

Chemical Inputs and Processing Prohibitions

Unlike basic fiber origin checks, GOTS enforces rigorous chemical toxicity criteria throughout wet-processing operations (dyeing, printing, and finishing):

• Prohibited Chemical Classes: All toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, genetically modified organisms (GMOs), and fluorocarbon-based stain repellents (PFAS) are entirely forbidden³.
• Biodegradability Standards: All chemical inputs (such as dyes, sizing agents, and auxiliaries) must be evaluated and approved by a GOTS-accredited certification body prior to operational use.
• Wastewater Treatment: Wet-processing units must continuously monitor pH, temperature, and Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) / Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) levels in effluent discharge.

Supply Chain Traceability: SC vs. TC Framework

Maintaining chain of custody is essential to prevent conventional textile inputs from contaminating certified organic supply streams:

• Scope Certificate (SC): Issued annually to verify that a supplier (e.g., spinning mill, dye house, or garment factory) possesses the operational qualifications and management systems to process GOTS goods.
• Transaction Certificate (TC): Issued for every specific shipment of goods traded between supply chain partners. The TC serves as legal financial and material proof that the exact lot of goods shipped originates from certified organic inputs.

Practical Module: On-Site GOTS Verification & Garment Quality Practice

To safeguard against fake certificates and supply chain fraud during bulk garment production, buyers and third-party inspectors should execute the following verification steps:

Step 1: Verification of Transaction Certificates (TC)

• Do not rely solely on an annual Scope Certificate. Request the specific Transaction Certificate (TC) covering the exact fabric lot used for your purchase order.
• Cross-examine the weight of finished garments against the raw fabric weight declared on the incoming TC to ensure the factory did not mix non-certified conventional fabric into bulk production.

Step 2: On-Site Trim and Packaging Audit

• Accessory Compliance: Verify that all non-textile accessories (e.g., zippers, buttons, sewing threads, elastic bands) conform to GOTS restricted substance limits.
• Labeling Checks: Inspect physical GOTS woven labels. Ensure the label displays the official GOTS logo, the correct label grade ("Organic" or "Made with Organic"), the certification body's name, and the license number of the certified entity.

Step 3: Chemical Residue Spot Testing

• During a Pre-Shipment Inspection (PSI), randomly select finished garment units and seal them for third-party analytical lab testing (ICP-MS, GC-MS) to verify the absence of banned alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs) and heavy metals.

References

1. Global Standard gGmbH. GOTS Version 7.0: Global Organic Textile Standard Ecology & Social Responsibility[S]. Stuttgart: Global Standard gGmbH, 2023.  
2. International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard. Licensing and Labeling Guide for GOTS[R]. Stuttgart: GOTS, 2022.  
3. European Chemicals Agency. Guidance on Substances in Articles under REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006[R]. Helsinki: ECHA, 2017.https://echa.europa.eu/guidance-documents/guidance-on-reach

Reference Notes

1. GOTS Version 7.0 defines the core global criteria for organic fiber processing, environmental management, and social compliance across textile supply chains.
2. The GOTS Licensing and Labeling Guide specifies exact rules for brand claim authorization, logo usage, and license number traceability.
3. ECHA REACH Guidance provides technical frameworks for restricted hazardous chemicals, directly referenced in GOTS chemical approval lists.